jueves, 25 de octubre de 2012

Harry Winston Ocean Triple Retrograde Chronograph Black Zalium Watch




Each year we get a new stream of interesting Harry Winston Ocean watches. Many are cool, some are strange, and some like this Ocean Triple Retrograde Chronograph watch just seem to hit a sweet spot. Release of this watch coincides with the interesting news that Harry Winston is looking to sell off their watch and jewelry making divisions. That doesn't mean the end of Harry Winston watches, but rather that someone other than Harry Winston may someday soon be making Harry Winston watches. With that comes a lot of regard as well as responsibility.

For over a decade the most interesting allure to the brand has been their Opus collection of fantastic partnership creations started by Max Busser (of MB&F) when he ran the watch division at Harry Winston. While it is incredible for PR, the Opus division is expensive, highly complicated, and a huge headache to keep going (this includes finding partner watch makers, designing cool products, making prototypes in time for the show, and eventually producing the limited edition models which can take... years). Having said that, it would be sore to see the Opus traditional stop by most all accords if the brand was sold to a buyer who didn't want to put in the time. Will a buyer want to keep it going? Will they do it just as well as it is done today? We just don't know. Nevertheless that is the future and according to Harry Winston they are not yet in talks with any prospective buyer - they merely made it known that they are looking to sell.

On to this watch. New for 2012 is this sexy looking Ocean Triple Retrograde Chronograph Black Zalium. It has a triple retrograde chronograph on a skeletonized dial in a 44mm wide Ocean style case made out of the brand's exclusive Zalium metal allow (much like titanium but more corrosion resistant). The black colored case is done with DLC coating and really makes the Ocean design look fantastic. It is muted and stealthy with nice proportions given the wide lugs that taper into the black rubber or alligator strap. The contrast of the mostly metallic looking dial has the overall composition looking modern, masculine, and attractive.

I am happy that the movement is an automatic. The lack of dial leaves the indicators reverse printed in white on the back of the sapphire crystal. That leaves just a pretty view of the movement placed with Cotes de Geneve striped polishing. There is some unique shapes on the bridges, and you have the iconic "Shiruken" subsidary seconds hand. That, and it actually isn't that hard of a chronograph to read. Plus, I like the neatly integrated chronograph pushers that could just as easily be crown guards. Nicely done Harry Winston. Price is $36,200.



Tech Specs from Harry Winston:

OCEAN TRIPLE RETROGRADE CHRONOGRAPH BLACK ZALIUM
Name: Ocean Triple Retrograde Chronograph Black Zalium
Reference: 400/MCRA44ZKL.S
Movement: Mechanical with automatic winding. Power reserve 42 hours
Functions: Excentered hours and minutes. Retrograde Chronograph with hours, minutes and seconds. Shuriken (small seconds)
Case Material: Zalium® with DLC coating, satin finish
Crystal: Sapphire
Case back: Open/sapphire, displaying a rose gold rotor with ruthenium treatment
Diameter: 44 mm
Water resistance: 100 meters (10 ATM)
Dial: Sapphire, open dial onto a ruthenium treated movement decorated with Côtes de Genève. Engraved Harry Winston logo. Transferred subdials with sanded circles. Black Super Luminova on hands
Strap: Black rubber
Buckle Type: Folding clasp. Material: Zalium with DLC coating
Collection: The Ocean Collection™

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